The fine jewelry business has gone to pot.
In late January, Lucia Silvestri, inventive director of Bulgari, attended the 2019 Town & Nation Jewelry Awards in New York wearing a $320,000 bib-style necklace of gold cannabis leaves encrusted with diamonds and rubies. A week later, in Los Angeles, she donned a sister necklace in yellow gold, this one particular adorned with diamond medallions bearing cutouts of the exact same distinctive leaf.
At initially glance, the spiky silhouette of Ms. Silvestri’s Pleased Leaves necklaces — aspect of Bulgari’s 2018 Wild Pop variety, named collection of the year by Town & Nation — may well appear like an innocent reference to Mother Nature. But to anybody with a passing familiarity with marijuana, there was no mistaking her message.
“We like to take dangers,” Ms. Silvestri mentioned in a phone interview from her workplace in Rome. “I believed, why not do a thing new in a modern way with these leaves that are so stunning, now that it is extra legal and we can speak about this with no any scandal.”
For a European jewelry property steeped in tradition, the move was bold — and opportunistic. With pot now legal for adults in Canada, as nicely as in 10 states and the District of Columbia in the United States — and with just about every state but Idaho obtaining passed some sort of marijuana legalization law — it was only a matter of time just before jewelers picked up the vibe.
“Marijuana is on its way to becoming a billion-dollar business,” mentioned Stellene Volandes, editor in chief of Town & Nation, which featured the malachite and diamond version of the Bulgari necklace as aspect of “an etiquette guide for the higher elite” in its February situation. “For jewelry not to reflect that is practically not possible.”
The trend traces its roots, naturally, to the stoner mecca of Southern California. Extended just before the state legalized recreational marijuana in 2018, the Beverly Hills-primarily based jeweler Jacquie Aiche threaded the cannabis symbol all through her Sweet Leaf collection of bohemian accessories in addition to jewels, the line consists of denim shirts, leather clutches and snakeskin doob tubes (like cigarette holders but for joints).
“It all began in 2010 with the modest Sweet Leaf stud,” Ms. Aiche mentioned. “Cannabis was so provocative at the time. I wanted to generate a thing particular for the negative girl who loved freedom, happiness and the higher life.”
The exact same louche sensibility drew Sapphire, the one particular-named designer behind the Sapphire Collective in Los Angeles, to generate a green sapphire ring in 2015 that resembled a bud of marijuana dotted with tiny white diamonds for the THC — the chemical accountable for most of marijuana’s impact — and rose gold for the hairs, or pistils. (A second version utilizes purple sapphires to evoke the hue of an Indica strain.)
She followed up with the Lit pendant, a satin-completed 18-karat gold joint with 1.three carats of orange and silver sapphires dotting its burned finish.
“Right following I completed my initially 5 pieces, I posted some pictures to Instagram,” Sapphire recalled. “I got a like and a repost from Carine Roitfeld, the former editor of French Vogue.”
In 2017, Just One particular Eye, an ultrachic style boutique situated in Howard Hughes’s old Art Deco headquarters in Hollywood, picked up Sapphire’s Stoned Immaculate collection. In a testament to the proclivities of the store’s clientele, it is not the only bejeweled ode to grass on show. A handful of circumstances away sits a $48,000 one particular-of-a-sort vape holder-slash-pendant by the Mexico-born designer Daniela Villegas green tourmaline and prehnite stag beetles decorate the slender tube, which is capped by a 10.03-carat bullet-shaped cabochon of — wait for it — smoky topaz.
Like her fellow Southern Californian jewelers, Nikki Erwin of the Los Angeles-primarily based Established brand, felt the time was proper to design and style a handful of cannabis-inspired jewels. In 2016, she made a pair of diamond earrings and a matching bracelet featuring a string of cannabis leaves that “sweet tiny old ladies” frequently error for stars, she mentioned.
The quick list of pro-pot jewelers extends far beyond the Los Angeles location, nonetheless. It consists of Holly Dyment, the Toronto-primarily based designer who hand-painted green enamel leaves on 18-karat gold earrings, rings and pendants in 2016 (“in anticipation of legalization,” she mentioned), and the San Francisco-primarily based Lauren Harwell Godfrey, whose Harwell Godfrey line options a locket packed with a cannabis-infused lip balm created by the Northern California brand Vertly. The $eight,500 18-karat gold pendant, created of inlaid malachite and enamel and on a strand of malachite beads, is not probably, Ms. Godfrey mentioned, to be her final cannabis-inspired piece.
Brent Winston, the founder of Brent Neale — a brand of exuberant, gem-set jewels explicitly made to lift people’s spirits — incorporated the weed symbol into her collection final summer season following producing a custom pair of cannabis leaf earrings for a client. In the fall, Ms. Winston, who is primarily based in New York City, unveiled a hand-carved brooch primarily based on a flower vase in an old master’s painting and added a marijuana leaf for kicks.
“I believed it was hilarious,” mentioned Ms. Winston, a mother of 3 who does not contemplate herself substantially of a smoker. “It’s a cultural phenomenon — fairly quickly, it is going to be like alcohol.”
As of this month, Ms. Winston’s satisfied jewels are readily available at The Higher Finish, a luxury and wellness idea shop that just opened at Barneys New York’s Beverly Hills retailer, in collaboration with the upscale cannabis supplier Beboe.
Stocked with exclusive accessories geared to fans of the cannabis way of life — gold rolling papers from Shine, horn lighters from Lorenzi Milano and custom-created blown glass pipes from Caleb Siemon — the shop also options an 18-karat gold locket inlaid with onyx and diamonds on a gold necklace that could double as a deluxe smoking accouterment, by the New York-primarily based jewelers Sorellina.
“On the chain is a clasp, and if you unhook it, you could place it on your finger and use it to smoke a joint,” mentioned Nicole Carosella, the company’s co-founder. “It’s generally a incredibly sophisticated diamond-encrusted roach clip.”
That luxury jewelers such as Sorellina have moved beyond aesthetic interpretations of the marijuana leaf to producing functional jewels intended to assistance their customers take pleasure in its added benefits does not surprise Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of The Adventurine, a internet site devoted to all issues jewelry.
“It’s like in the 1920s when smoking cigarettes was a significant deal for ladies and all of a sudden Cartier was producing cigarette holders that have been valuable, like pieces of jewelry,” Ms. Fasel mentioned. “It’s about an practical experience in elegance.”